This is a place where
everybody can find something to do with routes
fit for children, but even the parents, or
anybody else, can find pretty difficult climbs.
Between one route and the
next, you can bath into the creek that run
nearby or lie down relaxing on nice spot for pic
nic. Bouldering is great too and last but not
least you can perform on Paletta ridge that
offers moderate difficulties on fine rock. More
recently Fritz Amann added more multipitche
routes with difficulties untill 6b. From Chiavenna follow Splugapass road for 9 km. At the second hairpin after the evidend bridge near Gallivaggio church, park the car at an enlargement (left hand). On the other side follow a path, red marked, that easily leads to the choosen sector (5 min.). |
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Multipitches: 1 - Spigolo della Paletta 130m (6L) 5b max 1b- Paletta (upper part) 120m (4L) 5c max 2 - Intossicazione alcolica 95m (3L) 6a max 3 - via Erica 115m (5L) 5c max 4 - Lo zio cattivo 110m (5L) 5b max 5 - Nascondino 50m (2L) 6a max 6 - Due donne 60m (3L) 4b 7 - Project 75m (3L) 6b 8 - Waldzwerge 90m (4L) 6b Settore Moulinette: 9 - Curva a sinistra 15m 5a 10 - Brum del capo 15m 5c 11 - Curva a destra 15m 5b 12 - Due ore di sole 25m 5c 13 - Piromania 25m 5b 14 - Il bambino brutto 25m 5b 15 - Caro Diario 25m 5b Palm Beach Settore Bimbi: 16 - Wau Wau 15m 3a 17 - Il fratellino 15m 4a 18 - Kathi leading 15m 3b 19 - Gelato al dentifricio 15m 4b Settore Genitori: 20 - Nutellone 20m 6c 21 - Patate con patate 20m 6a 22 - Palm beach 20m 5c 23 - Sono Felice 20m 6b 24 - Pool over 20m 6b
PDF printable version
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vie by Fritz Amann
2013/2015 Rock Climbing is a potentialy dangerous activity, expecially for children or beginners. Who does it needs knowledge of the of the techniques taking his/her own risks and responsabilties: |
![]() Kathi leading |
![]() Gelato al dentifricio |
![]() Sono Felice |
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Placche di Mescolana Bella Ciao |
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![]() It is an excellent new route equipped by Guido Lisignoli by several different times and now finally climbed with Giovanna Mazza on October 15th 2021. 4 bolts, on the 3rd pitch are not climbed free yet, probably possible to stronger climbers. Approach: park the car at the hearpin before the first tunnel along Splugapass road (by an old street leading to an abandoned cave) and walk to Biscione and Mescolana crags. From the latter cross orizontally 100 meters to the start. (15 min.) ![]() Sotto: Bella Ciao, L7 6b |
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The line is unusual,
logic, with an orizontal traversing more than 50
meters long, not difficult, reaching a section
of the wall turning to south side. The route
could become a classic due to the good rock
quality and fine climbing. Sure one of the
longest of the valley. The 6th pitch
(Superplacca) and the ones on the Headwall
are wonderful. The top is beautiful too and
perfect for a good resting. From there you can choose either to rappel or walking along an unexpected path leading back to Cimaganda. right hand side: Superplacca. Below: firs pitch from start and the brilliant (8th pitch). |
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